Thanks in advance --68.229.xxx.xxx

Just cut out the bad spot and put in a shark bite coupler. --24.152.xxx.xx

I follow what NE said, many wanna be plumbers do this daily rather than start your house on fire. A very long time agon I had a chance to fix a leak where rotten timber collapsed causing a leak, I discovered that a heater hose fit over the threaded portion and hose clamps held it tight almost a month. --184.59.xxx.xx

Assuming it isn’t from the roof, a shark bite repair coupling will do the trick. Just make sure to follow the instructions. --174.193.xx.xxx

use a slip fit coupler. not a regular sharkbite. --108.239.xx.xx

I guess if it is just a really slow leak you could put a bucket under it and deal with it when you come back. I would worry about what else might be bad or if it would get worse within a short time. --107.147.xx.xxx

I've used steel braded lines with shark bites on the main line coming into the house in ground and all through ceiling leaks. Best part is the braid comes in different lengths too. (for copper pull the plastic insert out-- makes install so much easier. --108.239.xx.xx

I see the shark bite couplings online. What is the difference to a "regular" vs slip fit? --68.229.xxx.xxx

If it’s at a joint, drain the line and re-solder it (then replace the pipe when you get back. --172.58.xxx.xxx

Not sure here, but I’m assuming slip fit is something you might get at the supply house. Plumber jargon I’m guessing --24.152.xxx.xx

If you do end up cutting it too short, you may have to go to the plumbing supply house to get a 3/4” inch copper pipe stretcher. They are rather pricey, but extremely handy if you can find one. --24.152.xxx.xx

When you go looking for the pipe stretchers they will be next to the aluminum magnets. --107.147.xx.xxx

Something to look forward to when I get back! Oh, did I mention it is really tight, overhead, and has 2 tight (no slack) electrical wires against it? Yay! --68.229.xxx.xxx

Ps: don’t forget your permit. --24.152.xxx.xx

I generally turn off my water as a precaution when traveling however that's not a option for you. Every project that seems to be simple can get complex particularly if you're on a time crunch. I'd wait to deal with it when you get back. Maybe put some sort sealant on it as a temporary fix. --209.122.xx.xxx

Better option is to buy some Uponor commercial pex piping then replace all the older copper piping in ceiling as more then likely it is going leak somewhere else. Residential grade copper piping is very thin. A type Uponor is easy to bend where less joints are required where one time the special expansion tool will set you back. Commercial pex piping once have the special tools is not much expensive then the cheap B type pex piping sold in the big box stores. With the fittings the diameter of the connections is the same as diameter of the Uponor pex where one 3/4' hot and cold pipe can be manifolded to supply a few plumbing fixtures. In freezing conditions pex expands then contracts where usually no damage. Also with Uponor pex piping it is possible to install a sprinkler system where a sprinkler head for each room. Contractors simplify pex system where Uponor pex piping is used in residential and commercial applications along with easiest to install. --207.236.xxx.xxx

You wrote that your leak is at a soldered joint. If the joint is a coupling then you could cut it out and use a repair coupling. If the joint is a t or elbow then you cannot use a repair coupling; you would need either a sharkbite T or elbow along with several sharkbite couplings. --73.141.xxx.xxx

As far as your elbow leaking-- you don't need slip fit because you can pull the elbow away to engage the SharkBite. Think steel braded bite there unless its a tee? --108.239.xx.xx

Safe travels --24.101.xxx.xxx

Did you really mean safe travels rest easy? Or safe travels that union wouldn't blow apart while your gone? --108.239.xx.xx