There was a recent discussion on shower walls, what to use, etc; but how about the actual tub itself? Any recommendations on which ones to put in…something that is durable? When I have a unit come vacant, it seems like there is always a crack in the finish coating of the tub. So I usually have that re-coated; however, that re-coating only seems to last for the next tenant.

I deal with mobile homes. Mobile home tubs are usually 54” long. Menards stocks steel 54” tubs priced under $300. I have been using these as replacements for the past 10 years.

The finish is better and tougher than that of a fiberglass tub.

I like cast tubs especially when I see someone use a handicap chair and put holes in the fiber ones. Or drop something into the tub and it gets a crack OR some lard ass steps on the side of the tub and it opens up a 24 inch long crack. TENANTS will not think-- they just do--.

The older installed units are settling and causing issues. I have come to agree with cast only.

If you DO put in new and have an issue-- do not I repeat do not do anything to it until the insurance AKA warranty people look at it. I had a new install that had a 10" then 15 inch and growing crack. Warranty guy could not make it for 3 weeks (shocking I know) so I stop drilled each end of the crack to keep it from getting bigger. Man said even though installed correctly-- yes correctly since it was drilled no warranty allowed.

The last few houses I've used the Boots Aloha tub from H. Depot.

It's enamel over steel. At least as durable as cast iron and a lot lighter to handle.

Like anything from HD, I do always check the condition before loading it up.

I once had to re-order this tub 3 times (couple years ago)before I got one that had the enamel fully & properly applied (missed one corner). But I also get broken cabinets & other things, too - it's not special to the tub.

I have a steel tub in this latest rehab. It has chips in the enamel and I am wondering if I can put the little paint pen on it or if I should just yank it.

Had one tub (fiberglass) refinished and it sucked big time in a few months. I have tried the two can spray coat from Lowes and never any luck.

Not a high end unit, but a for sure C+. I am dumping a lot of money into it because I need to. Just unsure on this part.

Sean,

Porcelain on steel only. Like DJ said - ya gotta unbox it and check EVERY corner because the get bent/crunched in transit.

Fiberglass tubs get cigarette burns on the ledge while they sit on the toilet for a smoke.

The pro way to install them is on a bed of wet concrete for support.

The all fiberglass showers we installed (Delta) were nestled into a 2-3 bed of concrete on a super supported solid floor 2x4 framing, sent the pieces, done. Added glass swinging doors to each.

The Delta kit is not cheap but saved a TON in backer boards and labor and met our deadline.

The Delta WHITE is not the same white as the steel tub white but we put up a colorful shower curtain to distract the eye.

The PVC tongue and groove USED TO BE $5 per board about 6 inches wide - have not priced it lately. Cuts easily, goes up fast, looks VERY classy! The old plaster wall around the tub was crumbling so this easily hid all plaster damage.

We only had trouble with the guy's work gloves leaving smudges which they ASSUMED would wipe right off - but were hard to clean off.

We did the tub surround to the ceiling, used an edge cap to finish it, and 4' high around the rest of the room (cut the 8' board in half). Bathroom looks fantastic and is solid.

If you are gonna spend the time to rebuild a bathroom, do it so you'll NEVER have to come back AND make it fabulous because the bathroom and kitchen sell the house.

We've replaced a few tubs with large showers. MOST people don't use tubs anymore unless they are old women like me who like soak (my 30-40 something DILs think that's gross though!) and young mothers with babies, and people with dogs...

Well we don't cater to babies as our places usually very tiny, I don't want dogs washed in our tubs anyway, and we just won't be your choice if you MUST have a tub.

WMH makes a great point.

Luxury showers are IN.

If there are 2 bathrooms we make one a shower without a tub.

The last one was all tile with an 8” high curb so someone COULD cover the drain for kids to have a shallow pool.

we've tried sand we've done concrete, done plaster of paris, we've done the best bottom frame tub available with tiny support squares as a base.

NOTHING will keep a handicap chair leg from punching through a fiberglass tub---EPECIALLY WHEN ONE OF THE PLASTIC LEG PROTECTORS IS WORN OUT!

metal--

I will say if you go to h-depot or lowes almost every tub/shower is broken in the box. Some corner damage we can deal with but holes or cracks-- no way. we open every box we're thinking of buying to check them. No sense getting them to the job site and have to run back for a better one. WHY do these stores place these items on top shelf. WHY they get corner cracks? the guy taking them down uses the corner of the shipping box to pivot the box onto the dolly. watch them you'll see why the corners get cracked.

Two years ago, I was recovering from a hip replacement and DH had to be at home to take care of me. To keep him from going insane with inactivity, I told him to remodel our guest bath.

SO in one week out came the old gold fiberglass tub, and in went a new shower and nice new walls with toiletry holders, etc. New sink, vanity, commode, medicine cabinet.

This is the shower walls we used for our guest bath: EXCELLENT:

w w w .homedepot.com/p/Sterling-STORE-60-in-x-75-3-4-in-1-Piece-Direct-to-Stud-Alcove-Shower-Wall-in-White-72332700-0/302029095

And this is the pan: