Urgent professional plumbing problem!

I have searched online, and of course no workers at the hardware store know the answer - I'm hoping someone here will.

Also, I called another plumber yesterday, just in case I was stood up today (had a baaaad feeling). Can't get to it until "at least" Thursday.

It's a bit complicated, but I'll do my best to explain it clearly.

House is being rehabbed, on a concrete slab. Stud walls now, with access to the end of the tub.

I need the new tub installed - now.

Drywall is being delivered Tuesday and installed Wednesday.

Had a plumber scheduled to install the tub, drain, & valve today.

He's ghosted me the last couple days, when I tried to contact him to set a time - and has stood me up today.

So, if I don't get the tub in soon, the drywall guys (and everything after them) will be delayed & PO'd.

SO... I'm looking at possibly needing to do it myself, but I'm not familiar with it / done it much.

I've reviewed installation instructions online, and it seems very doable, when the p-trap is already correctly located.

BUT - here's the problem.

The 1 1/2" drain pipe comes straight up out of the ground, above where it tees into the main, horizontal drain. It's new - was just roughed in.

The center of this pipe is c. 2" to the side and 2" to the rear (further from the wall) than where the tailpiece of the tub drain/overflow pipe will come down.

There is no p-trap installed yet, and the p-trap will normally empty into a horizontal pipe.

So, it seems to me like there is not enough room to (easily) attach a horizontal pipe from the vertical drain to the p-trap, and anything close to an s-trap would create a sewer odor problem. It's too close to create an S drain, anyway.

I could do a 90 directed to further away from the wall, with a straight piece of pipe, then loop it back with another straight piece of pipe (all below grade) to a p-trap that would (hopefully) fall pretty close to where it needs to be, . And use compression-fitted (rather than glued) drain/overflow assembly for just a little flex.

BUT - that would create extra bends & I don't want to encourage clogs or make it more difficult to clear them. And it would take space that I don't really have - would need to cut away some of my newly-poured floor.

AAUUGH!!

Help?

I was just reading something that said an "S" drain may be OK for a tub.

The -S-trap- has been illegal about 30 years, use 45 not 90 so you can snake it next time. Why not just do the rest of the house drywall while you figure out this connection, have you framed in an access door just for stuff like this?

Thanks for your response, Vee.

I was thinking about 45s, to make more gradual curve.

The tub goes to the studs & after drywall goes in it will be harder - and bang into & mess up the walls. The drain will be behind kitchen cabinets.

I've had to do a lot of things "out of order" on this house.

So if needed, yeah - but more complicated.

Homer - yes, once its installed. My problem now is the position of the vertical drain pipe, to install it.

I am a licensed plumbing contractor and contractor with 5 other trade licenses. You are playing with fire, trying to get something done before the drywall is installed. If you get it wrong, new walls will have to be destroyed set things right!

The solution is to drywall around this area, and leave things open to be done by a professional.

I remember a client with a duplex with 4 bathroom having the same problem. She got a "handyman" to do the work quickly so the walls could be closed. Before she had the interiors painted I took a look. I made one comment to her and her face turned pail.

I asked, "How often does a tenant get a clogged shower or tub drain line"? She answered around once every year or two. I then said, did you think of installing a clean-out or have an access door thru the drywall to access the Trap and Waste/overflow? She asked why would she need those?

Thanks everybody.

I decided to search back through photos I had taken during the sewer lines being laid out - before concrete was poured.

The angle was a bit off, but it looked like there may have been a p-trap installed waaay down low. I dug & confirmed there actually is one! Yay! I'm so glad I was wrong!

So, its just a matter of connecting the drain & overflow assembly straight down into the vertical pipe. There "should" be enough wiggle to line them up.