Robert,

I know this is not among your greatest areas of expertise, but I thought you might have needed to deal with this issue at some point in the decades of your experience.

I need to paint inside a kitchen which is an occupied apartment. The kitchen was painted previously with a good quality oil based paint several years ago.

I intend to paint now with a good quality water based semi gloss typically used in bathrooms and kitchens and door frames and doors.

I know the best preparation is to clean, sand, clean, primer with oil based primer, and then paint with 2 costs of the water based semi gloss paint.

The problem is that I want to avoid any problem with dust in an occupied apartment. So, have you ever used any of the "liquid sandpaper" or "gloss removal" type liquid preparations instead of sanding???

Do they work to provide good adhesion of the new primer and new paint on top of the old oil based paint??

I'll chime in here

In and out no fuss,...little muss

Two coats water base kilz as tinted close to your final top coat color

No sanding between coats.

Allow dry thoroughly over night between coats

One coat of your top coat final paint and inspect for adequate.

Second coat of your top coat if necessary

This assumes you have good brush out skills and that the surfaces are not DISGUSTING.

KILZ is a great product and seems to stick to most any decent surface.

If brushed out well it surfaces up nice and your top coat will bond well.

Down the road at turnover if you want to sand and re work to the premium a version you can then,.

......and buy the best, most expensive pro brushes you can find, if you haven't already got them.

Clean and take care of them and you'll be passing them down

I'm stil working with some of my grandfathers red sable's and natural bristle. Like old hammers and hand saws,....lot of history in the patina on the wood.

......and buy the best, most expensive pro brushes you can find, if you haven't already got them.

Clean and take care of them and you'll be passing them down

I'm stil working with some of my grandfathers red sable's and natural bristle. Like old hammers and hand saws,....lot of history in the patina on the wood.

For an occupied rental repainting of the Kitchen Walls, NOT CABIENTS, you can shorten the process. After washing the walls with TSP and allowing it to completely dry, you can apply a bonding primer without sanding the walls. Then you can repaint over the bonding primer with either water base, acyclic or oil based paint.

I have tired different gloss removers for "small jobs" with some success.

O.k., thank you all for info.

TO 6x 6

1. Hang clean brush vertical till absolutely dry

2. Wrap bristles in newsprint squarely for storage when dry

3. Clean brush at end of every day

4. Store in use brush for lunch or store run, or color change wrapped in plastic bag in cooler or fridge

5. Keep a brush comb in your kit

6. Avoid paint at Ferrell

7. NEVER leave brush in paint can overnight

- I've worked (one time only) with painters who buy cheap brushes at the beginning of each job and leave them overnight or at color changes, in the working paint pot either with can top on or with plastic over top and rubber band. This globs paint onto bristles, over softens natural bristles, drives paint into Ferrell, and curls bristle edge. Turning the (cheap) brush into complete trash. This is nothing more than lazy, just plain cheap, lack of self respect or caring about what your doing.

8. Clean,...clean,....clean,...with final cleaning in warm soapy water, then rinse,...rinse,...rinse,....shake out ,....comb,...final shape bristle edge,...air dry hanging, wrap for storage.

9. KEEP YOUR FERRELL CLEAN. use your comb with a bath of boiled Lindseed oil and mineral spirits to soften and dislodge dry paint.

Oregon,

In some areas oil based paint has become unavailable. Therefore, the need for excellent preparation.