Do I have to mud and tape the new drywall that will be under the tile area? Or can I just put it in with drywall screws and leave the seams open and tile over that? --72.188.xxx.xxx

I don't have all the information you need. But recently my sister used a peel and stick backer for her kitchen backsplash and it saved lots of time and product. Instead of mixing and spreading on the wall , just peel and press. The tile also pressed on and then she grouted as you'd regularly would. --172.58.xxx.xx

I don't have all the information you need. But recently my sister used a peel and stick backer for her kitchen backsplash and it saved lots of time and product. Instead of mixing and spreading on the wall , just peel and press. The tile also pressed on and then she grouted as you'd regularly would. --172.58.xxx.xx

Laminate sheets make good backsplashes too. --149.76.xxx.xxx

You don't need to fill all the seams if they match up below the width of a paint stirring stick however you did not mention the tile backerboard which could be cement or fiberglass, tiles will only stay on till they get wet and the moisture leaches thru the grout to dampen the once drywall and it all falls off because the water wicks into the gypsum quickly. --76.188.xxx.xxx

Putting tile on sheet rock with Mastic is a chincy job. Since you have to do it anyways, do it right. Remove the sheet rock and put up cement backerboard like Sisco says. The backsplash will last forever. --73.177.xxx.xx

Thanks. I have imstalled cement board before, but it was in a shower. How do you make small precision cuts around the outlets and the contours of the upper cabinets on the board? A circular saw won't work for that. --172.58.xxx.xxx

I use a grinder with a masonry wheel. But that method is extremely dusty, so wear a mask. --73.177.xxx.xx

What kind of waterproofing do you use? I had to do 7 thin coats of redgard to get to the required thickness in the shower, so I would not want to use Redgard again. --172.58.xxx.xxx

If you are doing a backsplash I wouldn’t worry about waterproofing cement board. If you really feel a need to, I would only do behind the sink, possibly a narrow line at the counter. Have each layer slightly wider than the last and it will make the stop line nearly invisible. Yes, I would tape the joints. Tile will be more likely to crack at the joints if it is not taped. Don’t forget to use caulking at all plane changes. If I were using Sheetrock, I would waterproof the whole thing. --76.179.xxx.xx

Thx Nellie. --172.58.xxx.xxx

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--149.76.xxx.xxx

Hardi board is a lot easier to work with which is available in 1/4" thickness or 1/2" thickness where 1/4" can be cut with a utility knife then 1/4" on studs to make a 1/2" thickness. I use a multi tool with a special blade carbide blade to cut. A multi tool is a great to have as can do many projects in tight areas. --99.236.xxx.xxx