I've been removing and not replacing them as they go bad. Do you have to completely remove them or can you just bypass them to save money? --70.158.xxx.xx

There is a special sink strainer sold to r and r them. Search the past forum posts as I do not remember the brand offhand. Have done this removal and replacement on 2 apartments so far. --201.140.xxx.xx

I've been removing them also and replacing with a basket strainer. --66.30.xx.xx

Completely remove garbage disposal. I have seen them rust out from the bottom and drip onto base cabinet and cause water damage. --173.216.xxx.xx

A disposer without power seems to clog all the time. --108.28.xx.xxx

Various plumbing and safety codes around the country say they should be "removed" if not operational. Be sure to cap off the electrical and connect the new sink strainer basket to the trap. --47.155.xx.xxx

I do the same as you, remove them as I can. I would not just leave it there. If a tenant sees it, they will expect it to work. Plus you lose a lot of under the counter space with that big metal thing sitting in the way. My handyman can take it out and re-plumb the line in 10 minuets, so during a turn over that only costs me about $10 for his time plus $5-$10 for the PVC drain pieces...easy cheesy! --107.216.xxx.xxx

BRAD --73.102.xxx.xxx

I always remove them and not replace them. --98.245.xx.xx

I think you are not sure how to remove the flange to changeover to basket, the collar that holds the disposer motor comes loose by turning the outer rim using a medium short phillips (this is the plus at the end) screwdriver pushed into one of the holes then turn the outer ring loose. Now you see the 3 set screws, loosen each of those and using a medium short straight (this is the minus at the end) screwdriver and pry out the snap ring and the motor retainer will fall into the cabinet, next push up and out the disposer basket and you have the hole like you see when the sink is new, put some clear silicone sealer on the rim of the new basket and the paper or rubber seal with the large nut goes on from below - when you tighten the large nut it will smoosh the sealer and that is where you stop for a couple hours to let the sealer dry while you clean up all that rubble and throw it away. Now you build the drain as a single or double from the new tailpiece kit or divider kit and get it together so there is a trap to keep the sewer stink from rising out of the sink, tighten everything again to be sure no leaks. --76.188.xxx.xxx

The second we close on a property-- if there is a disposal-- it's history. --99.103.xxx.xxx

Also, we never have any problems with kitchen sink drains either because what can fit through the little holes on the basket will not create any problems. --99.165.xx.xxx

It's funny how I never have any issues with mine at my home but I always end up needing to push the button or use the allen wrench at the rentals. I just had to do that a couple days ago. --72.188.xxx.xxx

Read Brad post ^^^ --76.77.xxx.xxx

It is a quality of life issue and BRAD is 100% correct --24.62.xxx.xxx

On my newest construction, I have the wiring for one, but we are not installing them. Too many people don’t know how to use them correctly. Very few of the rentals have them in my book. --67.43.xxx.xxx

Would guess it depends on the type of apartments - in C class apartments with Section 8 types, get rid of disposers. Upscale apartments, with higher rents, keep them. --174.65.xx.xxx