Water Heaters
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Water Heaters (by GLR [MA]) Mar 13, 2024 12:49 PM
       Water Heaters (by S i d [MO]) Mar 13, 2024 2:01 PM
       Water Heaters (by Gene [OH]) Mar 13, 2024 2:18 PM
       Water Heaters (by Tim [CA]) Mar 13, 2024 2:35 PM
       Water Heaters (by Ken [NY]) Mar 13, 2024 3:59 PM
       Water Heaters (by plenty [MO]) Mar 13, 2024 4:53 PM
       Water Heaters (by plenty [MO]) Mar 13, 2024 4:55 PM
       Water Heaters (by Robert,OntarioCanada [ON]) Mar 13, 2024 7:08 PM
       Water Heaters (by Jason [VA]) Mar 13, 2024 7:27 PM
       Water Heaters (by gevans [SC]) Mar 13, 2024 8:36 PM
       Water Heaters (by Robert J [CA]) Mar 14, 2024 2:33 AM
       Water Heaters (by zero [IN]) Mar 14, 2024 10:03 AM
       Water Heaters (by Ray-N-Pa [PA]) Mar 14, 2024 10:18 PM
       Water Heaters (by gevans [SC]) Mar 15, 2024 7:41 PM
       Water Heaters (by MC [PA]) Mar 16, 2024 6:19 AM

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Water Heaters (by GLR [MA]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 12:49 PM
Message:

What is your approach with water heaters.... I've been doing the anode change every other year approach, flushing, 6 year warranty water heaters.... they still go bad roughly 1 year after the warranty expires.

And its ALWAYS at an inconvenient time. I'm thinking about being proactive and just replacing them once the warranty expires. That way it's planned and not an 'EMERGENCY'.

What do you do, and what warranty do you usually go with? The 6 year, 9 year, 12 year? Thanks!

--209.6.x.xxx




Water Heaters (by S i d [MO]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 2:01 PM
Message:

I never touch them. Never drain them. Never change the rods. Nada, zip, zilch. I install them and then let them run until they die. I've got several over 20 years old. Most last 10-12 years at least. Therefore, the warranty is irrelevant to me.

I buy whatever brand the Big Box store (Lowes or Home Depot) carries.

Not sure how you got such a bad string of failures. Maybe the maintenance is causing the problem, and "let sleeping dogs lie" is the new method to try? --184.4.xx.xx




Water Heaters (by Gene [OH]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 2:18 PM
Message:

I'm with Sid. I never do anything with my water heaters even the one in my own house. The last one in my house lasted almost 30 years and I have one in a rental that is over 15 years old. Unless they are showing rust at the bottom or start leaking, I leave them alone. When they do need to be replaced, I have been switching them from gas to electric because the gas water heaters are more complicated and don't seem to last as long. --99.165.xx.xxx




Water Heaters (by Tim [CA]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 2:35 PM
Message:

I'm with Sid as well. Are your properties on a well? If so, I'd have the water tested. Or....consult with a local plumber and see what they think might be going on..... --73.2.xx.xx




Water Heaters (by Ken [NY]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 3:59 PM
Message:

I do nothing with them, the cost of having someone messing with them isnt worth it,they die when they die --74.77.xx.xx




Water Heaters (by plenty [MO]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 4:53 PM
Message:

As Did does as well. The gas ones keep on keeping on. I use Lowe's to install. They schedule and install same day or next day. They pull permits --172.59.xxx.x




Water Heaters (by plenty [MO]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 4:55 PM
Message:

Good grief spell correct... Sid(mo) keeps changing it to Did! Sid did! --172.59.xxx.x




Water Heaters (by Robert,OntarioCanada [ON]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 7:08 PM
Message:

If using a gas boiler or oil boiler the better option is to buy a indirect hot water made of stainless steel where no anode rod. Bradford White makes this type of water heater. The advantage with indirect hot water tank is efficiency along with at 3 times the amount of hot water as a boiler has higher BTU rating then a direct fired hot water tank also in stand by when no hot water is required the heat loss is less then one degree per hour where a direct fired hot water tank has a open stack that losses 7 to 12 degrees per hour. Well more expensive upfront the operating costs along only have drain tank once in while. Remember the immersion coil temperature is the same as boiler temperature which much lower then a flame at the bottom of tank. Second option is to buy a demand hot water heater like a Takagi which is sold at lowes under another name then only flush out once in while where 95 per cent efficient instead 55 per cent efficiency. Hard water locations require a water softner. In 2005 returned the rental hot water tank then installed a Takagi demand gas water heater where only cleaned. While was more expensive upfront the water heater only heats when hot water is required along with no anode rod. It is referred to a tankless as no storage of hot water. --207.236.xxx.xxx




Water Heaters (by Jason [VA]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 7:27 PM
Message:

I’ll repair them at a component level when they fail, but if it involves me dragging a 3/4” drive ratchet to change an anode, I’m out. At that point, it’s no longer worth my time. I’ll drain them every 5 or so years, but that’s about it. None of mine will cause damage when they fail, so I drive em til they blow. --172.56.xxx.xx




Water Heaters (by gevans [SC]) Posted on: Mar 13, 2024 8:36 PM
Message:

I've been doing this since 1998. I've never once changed an anode, and rarely flush one. I SOMETIMES change an element when it goes bad, but typically just change out the water heater.

I get a deal on Lowe's scratch and dent and returns. Typically they are returned because some homeowner installed one and energized it before filling with water, burning out the top element. I can get them all day long for $250 in that condition.

So why do maintenance or repair?

I also set them up with PEX and TWO shut off valves, and an electrical disconnect (per code here). So changeouts are typically one hour.

All are on pans with drains. I've considered water alarms, but have yet to do that.

--69.80.xx.xx




Water Heaters (by Robert J [CA]) Posted on: Mar 14, 2024 2:33 AM
Message:

Unless you replace the crappy plastic drain valve with a 3/4" brass Full Port valve, you won't be able to drain all of the internal sediment and are simply wasting your time trying to extend the life of your water heaters. I by the type with 3/4" pipe threads to a Hose fitting with a ball vale between these 2 fittings.

And after draining the water heater I flush it out and use a pin hole camera inside to view my work. Send down the camera from the anode, hot water outlet or the T&P valve port.

I also replace the standard anodes with an ELECTRIFIED Version. This doubles or triples the life of a 6-9 year water heater. --47.155.xx.xxx




Water Heaters (by zero [IN]) Posted on: Mar 14, 2024 10:03 AM
Message:

One town I have places in has bad quality water. When I lose an element I make sure to take a wire or a metal coat hanger with me.

The plastic valves start working once you ream them a couple times.

Last one I replaced had sediment up to the lower element. I swapped elements but ended up removing the whole unit. Started showing signs of rust so I figured why try and wash it out. --107.147.xx.xx




Water Heaters (by Ray-N-Pa [PA]) Posted on: Mar 14, 2024 10:18 PM
Message:

I closed on a place this week. The hot water tank is an old old AO Smith, from 1994. I was impressed. But with this being a new purchase, I want to make sure I have piece of mind. --24.101.xxx.xxx




Water Heaters (by gevans [SC]) Posted on: Mar 15, 2024 7:41 PM
Message:

I changed out one about 5 years ago...a Bradford White from 1962! In continuous use and failed after more than 50 years! --69.80.xx.xx




Water Heaters (by MC [PA]) Posted on: Mar 16, 2024 6:19 AM
Message:

Unless it is a must, I don't replace. Don't drain, maybe replace an element once in awhile. --73.230.xxx.xx



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