Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd

just wanted an opinion. I am doing another Ceramic Tile tub surround and I always use cement board for my walls. I use Hardi Backer on the floor. I prefer working with Hardi Backer as I am sure most people do since its lighter and easier to cut. Has anyone used Hardi Backer around their bath tubs. Also, if you have used Hardi Backer, do you seal it with a vapor barrier like Red-Guard. I am a bit worried with the Hardi Backer on this job because I am installing a Niche in the wall and although the cement board is harder to work with, I can use fiberglass tape and my vapor barrier to seal up the joints for the Niche. I am not sure if Hardi Backer has a vapor barrier --216.99.xxx.xx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Vee [OH]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 5:29 AM
Message:

Cement is not a vapor barrier however any outside wall where wide variations in temp will create moisture using a vapor barrier sheet is a very good idea to retard any mildew growth. Hardie backer seems to withstand bumping better than cement, I carry lots of fiberglass backer and it feels the same as cement board when you are steering around a landing or anything where you need to twist. If you are unsure of how to make the cutouts, you can plunge cut with a electric hand saw, in my tubs I just trim tiles to make shelves from them, take away the top below the shelves and I use rubber sealant rather than grout for those irregular expansion seams, I have one 6 suit place where the shelves are drilled for toothbrushes, students really like those features. --75.94.xxx.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Bohemia [IL]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 6:13 AM
Message:

Neither cement board nor Hardibacker is/has a vapor barrier. You need either a plastic sheet behind it or a paint-on product like Red Guard on top of it. I prefer the latter, because it's also a waterproofing membrane. Slather it in your joints and the whole thing is waterproof.

You can use either one on walls as long as it's 1/2". I personally prefer cement board.

On the floor, switch to Ditra. A bit more expensive, but way better technology and way faster/easier to cut and lay. --75.129.xxx.xx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Gruvin [TX]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 6:47 AM
Message:

You may use either as long as it is 1/2 or there is another layer of something behind it to reduce flex/deflection. Only two things I don't see posted are use a modified thinset once you put the redgard on the hardibacker and be sure to let the product fully cure. These two things are the biggest reasons I have seen failures... --99.126.xx.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by gevans [SC]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 8:01 AM
Message:

Schluter has a great product that waterproofs the entire shower enclosure. it's a waterproof membrane that's kind of hairy on both sides so the thinset will bond with it.

Not cheap, but then neither are leaking showers.

Do it right, do it once. --141.129.x.xx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Robert J [CA]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 8:43 AM
Message:

I am a contractor and have owned/managed over 100 units at a time. I conducted a test. I know that sometimes with shower walls a defect in the grout can lead to water intrusion into the tile backer. Once water is absorbed into the tile backer, a vapor barrier is a must otherwise whats behind the backer will deteriorate rapidly.

Now with the tile backer. Cement board has held up with constant water seepage but I can't say the same for Hardibacker. In time with enough water it starts to break down and disintegrate. For this reason I choose cement board in a wet area like a tub or shower encloser. --74.100.xxx.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by TenantWhisperer [MA]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 1:49 PM
Message:

I conducted an experiment with Hardibacker and water.

I submerged a scrap in a 5 gal bucket of water and put a weight on it to keep it at the bottom.

After 2 weeks of water immersion, I took out the hardibacker. It had not deteriorated or gotten soggy in any way and broke with a nice dry "snap".

I can only conclude that Hardibacker is waterproof enough for any shower. --73.186.xx.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by amarie [IN]) Posted on: Jan 15, 2015 8:17 PM
Message:

I used hardiebacker in all my tiled showers. I use redgard on the seams and on the parts of the shower that are most likely to be repeatedly wet (not at the top). No problems so far. --184.18.x.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Nellie [ME]) Posted on: Jan 16, 2015 7:56 AM
Message:

1/2" Hardiebacker or cement board on shower walls. Install using alkali resistant screws to studs. Tape joints using mortar and alkali resistant mesh fiber tape. Coat whole thing with red guard to waterproof. Red guard should be the thickness of a dime when finished. Now tile. Cost a little bit for the red guard, but you won't have leaking issues later.

The Schluter product is also an excellent choice. --64.223.xxx.xx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Greg [WA]) Posted on: Sep 19, 2018 7:57 PM
Message:

I[m going to use hardibacker for a shower surround for the first time. I have always used wonder board.

I also purchased some Red Guard for the first time. Should I be concerned with the Red Guard not allowing the thinnest to bond properly.

I'm nervous about it and I am tempted to go back to my old ways of vapor barrier behind the cement board.. --73.193.xx.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by cjo'h [CT]) Posted on: Sep 19, 2018 10:27 PM
Message:

Paul,bon jour.1/4" or 1/2" same difference both are good,also if you do a proper tiling and grout job,there's no need to waterproof anything,why should you?............................charlie........................................... --32.214.xxx.xx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by cjo'h [CT]) Posted on: Sep 19, 2018 10:35 PM
Message:

why would you have to use 1/2",?.............................charlie..................just wondering no particular reason................. --32.214.xxx.xx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by Nellie [ME]) Posted on: Sep 20, 2018 5:30 AM
Message:

Charlie, you use 1/2” on walls for structural strength and rigidity.

The first coat of red guard should be thinned by half to act as a primer. Then apply to the thickness of a dime. Multiple thin coats dry faster than one or two thick coats.

There are no problems with the thinset bonding to the red guard. They are designed to work together. --68.238.xx.xxx

Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd (by cjo'h [CT]) Posted on: Sep 20, 2018 8:02 AM
Message:

Nellie,I've used 1/4",@seemed sturdy enough,never had a problem so far.Ive got to the point that I don't bother with Cement or Wonder Board any more........charlie...................... --32.214.xxx.xx

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Hardibacker vs. Cement Bd

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