Maple floors (by MQ [IN]) Mar 7, 2004 9:53 AM
        RE: Maple floors (by Tim [IL]) Mar 7, 2004 10:39 AM
        RE: Maple floors (by tyler [nc]) Mar 7, 2004 11:03 AM
        RE: Maple floors (by Dan [MD]) Mar 7, 2004 11:26 AM
        RE: Maple floors (by MQ [IN]) Mar 7, 2004 12:02 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by Carolyn [MO]) Mar 7, 2004 12:23 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by Jeff S [MI]) Mar 7, 2004 2:03 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by david g [wa]) Mar 7, 2004 4:52 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by kerry [co]) Mar 7, 2004 5:53 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by david g [wa]) Mar 7, 2004 6:29 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by tyler [nc]) Mar 7, 2004 7:02 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by tyler [nc]) Mar 7, 2004 7:06 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by Jeff S [MI]) Mar 7, 2004 8:18 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by Jeff S [MI]) Mar 7, 2004 8:21 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by llordofny [ny]) Mar 7, 2004 9:42 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by david g [wa]) Mar 7, 2004 11:42 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by MQ [IN]) Mar 8, 2004 6:41 AM
        RE: Maple floors (by GA [ ]) Mar 8, 2004 8:14 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by da vid g [wa]) Mar 8, 2004 10:45 PM
        RE: Maple floors (by Dan [MD]) Mar 9, 2004 3:23 AM
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Maple floors (by MQ[IN])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 9:53 AM
Message:
I'd like your opinions about what I should do about the beautiful hardwood maple floors in my rental home. When I bought the home in 1991, there was wall-to-wall carpeting throughout. I had it pulled out and underneath was near pristine maple flooring in the bedrooms, closets and LR. Same year I had them lightly sanded and polyurethaned. 13 years later and several tenants later, the floors, especially LR are looking a bit ratty--normal wear and tear--nothing major.

After existing tenants are out, I'm considering having the floors done again. I think the house would show better. How often should floors be refinished? Also, I'm considering putting area rugs in the three rooms mentioned just to preserve the integrity of the floors from now on.

What would you do? --156.56.124.38



RE: Maple floors (by Tim[IL])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 10:39 AM
Message:
I dont know of too many floorcovers that get 13 years of life in a rental with high turnover. I would get the floors redone and hope they last that long the next go round. --12.215.193.121


RE: Maple floors (by tyler[nc])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 11:03 AM
Message:
...i love hardwoods...i bet a light screening and 2-3 coats of poly...might take care of it for you....not sure you really need to resand...with/out seeing....Can you post a picture to the picture page? --64.12.116.208


RE: Maple floors (by Dan[MD])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 11:26 AM
Message:
I'm with Tyler, buffer with screen, then 2 coats of poluurethan, should look like new. Maple is really a lovely wood for floors. --12.22.251.2


RE: Maple floors (by MQ[IN])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 12:02 PM
Message:
Thanks, all. I'm going to do it! Tyler, I didn't even know there was a picture page, but if I had a pic, I'd post it. I love posting pics on the Web to share. I take digital food pictures (I'm a great cook) and post them regularly from Picturetrail onto a different forum. But I don't have a current pic of the floors.

I'm sure they need a light sanding or buffing. Yes, they are one of the main attractions of the house. The boards are cut on the narrow side, i.e., less than what you typically see for oak flooring. --156.56.116.150



RE: Maple floors (by Carolyn[MO])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 12:23 PM
Message:
Don't sand any more than you have to. A hardwood floor can take only so many sandings. --152.163.252.193


RE: Maple floors (by Jeff S[MI])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 2:03 PM
Message:
I am not sure if any of you have tried this, I have hardwood floors, not bad enough to try it yet. But if they are not too bad, (light scratches) get some very very hot water, pour in some alcohol (not Jim Beam or your favorite for consumption), and simply mop. The hot water, alcohol is supposed to sort of melt the top layer and fill in any light scratches (sort of the same principle a a zamboni cleaning the ice between periods). If anybody gets a chance, give it a try and let us know how it works.

Sounds like MQ is a little past this stage, though. --12.75.21.221



RE: Maple floors (by david g[wa])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 4:52 PM
Message:
Any question regarding wood or carpeting and the advice given on this site absolutely makes me cringe. I have the been the district mgr for Bruce Hardwood and advise to put hot water and mop is probably the oddest consumer tip I have heard to date. First of all you need to know if the maple is factory finished or on site sanded. If its factory it probably has aluminum oxide which can only be applied at the factory. Never put water on wood period. Get hardwood advice from a hardwood guy, not on an anonymouse msge board. If you guys giving this wierd advice want to pay for the guys buckled and cupped floor feel free to advise away. I looked at a complaint where the lady had mold growing between the boards on her hardwood as she was advised to wet mop with vinegar--I think she overdid it. Damp mopping has much different interpretations to many people. OK i've vented, I feel so much better. --24.18.208.58


RE: Maple floors (by kerry[co])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 5:53 PM
Message:
David:

Are you suggesting that factory finished hardwood should be refinished in a different manner than non-factory finished floors? If so, what are the differences? --63.211.244.20



RE: Maple floors (by david g[wa])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 6:29 PM
Message:
Yes, you don't have to 'sand' a factory finished floor because you don't want to remove the aluminum oxide finish, just abrate it slightly so a new layer of finish will adhere to it. Commonly called a screen and recoat its very inexpensive to do or have done. This is the reason engineered hdwds are much better than a laminate (pergo type) floor as laminates cannot be refinished. Sand and finished floors don't have the same type of finish so are usually sanded down and refinished. --24.18.208.58


RE: Maple floors (by tyler[nc])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 7:02 PM
Message:
david....i think the question was about Real Hardwood flooring... --205.188.209.16


RE: Maple floors (by tyler[nc])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 7:06 PM
Message:
never mind david...i see what your were answering....agree water and wood don't mix well.... --205.188.209.16


RE: Maple floors (by Jeff S[MI])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 8:18 PM
Message:
David:

I don't believe I agree yet.

Do you know how the old boat manufacturers and furntiture manufacturers used to get wood to curve ?? Heat, steam, water and pressure. How about putting a hardwood boat in the water ?? Do you remember those ?? Wood will swell when it absorbs water, yes. If a floor is already is sealed pretty well, a light liquefication and subsequent resealing of the surface shouldn't affect the integrity of the wood flooring. But you may be correct if there are definite gaps which the water, alcohol solution can get into. And personally, I would not own any of the pergo types of flooring - for the reason that if water ever did penetrate the hard surface, likely the substrate will deteriorate.

So, I guess we have to make decisions based on the pros and cons of this method. --12.75.19.105



RE: Maple floors (by Jeff S[MI])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 8:21 PM
Message:
David:

I forgot to ask one question - what is an "engineered" hardwood. I personally own the "real" hardwood, not even sure I am aware of this product you have referred to (unless this is some type of veneered product). --12.75.19.105



RE: Maple floors (by llordofny[ny])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 9:42 PM
Message:
david:

how are you supposed to clean hardwood floors that have alot of dust or dirt? --69.22.244.97



RE: Maple floors (by david g[wa])
Posted on: Mar 7, 2004 11:42 PM
Message:
Hi, Lots of people have the impression that by putting lots of finish on a hardwood floor you somehow create a solid sheet of polyurethane or whatever so water would not affect it. The reality is that a solid floor will expand and contract and there will be gaps that will allow water to collect. Most problems occur over the use of the term damp mopping. I've seen everything from a basiclly dry totally wrung out pvc mop head to the housecleaner using a string mop dripping with water. Go to Bruce.com and look under maintenance hints. Engineered hardwood is a veneer type product made similar to a laminate but with a real wood veneer. "real" hardwood is often thought of as 3/4" solid wood, but since that can't be installed on concrete in some markets engineered is the only way to go. Personally I find sweeping a floor much easwier to clean or use a schmop type swiffer with a microfiber pad to clean. Use specialty cleaners from a hardwood shop or specific cleaners you can get at HOme Depot --24.18.208.58


RE: Maple floors (by MQ[IN])
Posted on: Mar 8, 2004 6:41 AM
Message:
FYI, this is real hardwood. --129.79.23.91


RE: Maple floors (by GA[ ])
Posted on: Mar 8, 2004 8:14 PM
Message:
David -

Can you also have a hardwood (circa 1925) screened instead of refinished if it was completely sanded and field finished with poly several years ago? Or do you have to totally refinish if the poly was applied on site? --68.158.13.7



RE: Maple floors (by da vid g[wa])
Posted on: Mar 8, 2004 10:45 PM
Message:
my experience is more with prefinished so you would need to ask a hardwood floor refinisher. I think the answer would be if your floor is top nailed or not or if the finish you applied lends itself to be screened and recoated. --24.18.208.58


RE: Maple floors (by Dan[MD])
Posted on: Mar 9, 2004 3:23 AM
Message:
GA, you can probably get away with screening and re-application of polyurethane. That's what I do when the poly gets scuffed up, and it looks great. I only re-sand if there are deep gouges or other significant damage. --12.22.251.2