Tenant was using a hair dryer to put up plastic over windows in liv rm, power went out in that room- looked like she blew a fuse, tripped the breaker. After checking all circuit breakers (turned off & on, even checked to see that electricity was coming out of them) power in that room was still out. Hallway light directly outside the room, lights and clock in the room- not working. However, TV in the same room is working.

Hmmmm. Any ideas on what might cause this? Where else to look? --65.43.186.184

Turn off power and pull that plug to have a look.

Sean --64.169.155.31

I have two computers, a monitor, computer speaker system, a laser printer, a copier machine, an overhead shop light and a digital clock ALL hooked up to 1 inlet of an electrical socket pulling twice as much current as any available 'hair dryer' can on the market and I have been uable to blow any fuses.

Sounds to me that you have a short somewhere in the wire line and I would strongly recommend having a certified electrican inspect for damage. I suspect there is a problem somewhere in the line 'not' with the outlet itself.

Why risk it? --67.29.223.222

Resistance heat pulls a lot of amps. If in doubt....use an ampmeter on the circuit to check the computers, a monitor, computer speaker system, a laser printer, a copier machine, an overhead shop light and a digital clock, and you will come up short of what some hair dryers will consume. --68.53.193.212

Many of the devices listed above are momentary use, sleep mode enabled.. A hairdryer running for 15 minutes applying whatever that crap was to the windws could ver well have cooked a wire.

Sean --64.169.155.31

The typical hand held hair dryer can be anywhere from 1000 to 1850 watts. If you divide the wattage by the voltage that will give you the amperage (draw) of the hair dryer. A 1850 watt hair dryer will draw approximately 15 amps at full load causing a 15amp rated circuit breaker to trip, especially if there are additional devices on the same circuit.

The TV is most likely plugged into a receptacle that is on a different circuit.

I would begin by checking the circuit breakers once again. With a voltage tester, test from the load side of each circuit breaker to the neutral or ground bar to determine you do have 120 volts at this point. If all breakers test good its time to start checking devices,pull each device and check terminations. This should be done with the circuit breakers off for safety.

If you have gone this far and have not determined the problem it is most likely a wiring problem that can be located more easily by a licensed electrician with a circuit tracer. Good Luck! --64.252.138.252

There's a problem somewhere in the line not with the socket. Its your house... --67.29.223.222

Come'mon there has to be an electrican out there with some knowledgeable responses... --67.29.223.222

Electricity isn't a complicated subject to many on here, but it can be deadly, under the right circumstances. If someone doesn't have the foggiest idea what they are doing, it should be left to someone that does. It isn't the same as a leaky toilet or pipe. --68.53.193.212

FYI, I have contacted the boards licensed electrician. I hope he has time to put this right without further question.

Sean --63.207.239.127

No I dont think Ted, Sean, or you are bozo's, I just think your not Psychoic.. --67.29.223.222

I've checked the breakers with a voltage tester, as well as the connections to the breakers themselves. Now I'll check the devices, if that doesn't resolve anything I'll break down and call the electrician.

Thanks again! --65.43.186.184

First, the tenant may have been using more items than just what was mentioned-but without that part of the equation in place we will work with what is "given".

What do we know?

The tenant has a hair dryer, at least 2 lights, and a clock radio that are involved.

Assuming that you were able to reset breaker/replace fuse and the circuit "held", the problem would obviously be somewhere in the wiring. One of the first things I would check are the light fixtures. 90% of lighting fixtures (incandescant type) are rated at 60w per socket. If you put in 100w bulbs, the wires will slowly bake to the point that they are so fragile they break. Turn OFF the breaker that supplied these lights/outlets. Open the lights, count the bulbs and wattage for each bulb. If bulbs are rated HIGHER than sockets are rated inform tenant that they must be 60w MAX - anything more increases YOUR (the LL) risk of fire, that YOU (the tenant) will be responsible for. Now that the light has been removed from the ceiling, check the condition of each wire. You are looking for something obvious, if you are too enthusiastic with these wires YOU may break them - if they are not broke already. If the wire IS broken (or becomes broken), with any luck you will be able to "splice a short "tail" to extend that wire to a comfortable working length (about 4 - 6 inches). Each light may have 3 or more cables entering it. I suggest color codeing the wires so you can splice them back together easily. Black, white, red and blue would be the colors I would use. B/W would be used for wires that enter and exit box, red for wires to switch(ohm meter/continuity tester will be needed), blue if needed. After identifing the wires, turn the power back on and check if there is any power at the light boxes. I am assuming this is an older type house. Most older homes "daisy chained" the power from room to room using the ceiling boxes. These boxes can be quite small (3 inches) and jammed with wires (each cable contains 2 wires; one cable in from previous room/panel, one cable out to next room, one cable to switch, one or more cables to outlets in room =8 - wires PLUS the fixture wires TOTAL 10 -12 wires).

If checking the light boxes fail, then you will need to open the outlet boxes. Basically following the same steps. Turn OFF power, open outlets, ID wires with tape, turn ON power, find the power in a box.

If all this fails. Turn OFF all the power EXCEPT the circuit that originally failed. Note what outlets/lights still work. Turn all power ON, and turn OFF power to this circuit. Open each outlet/light, ID wires, turn power ON, find the power. The box with power is *should* be where the problem originates(it *may* be multiple locations).

IF while opening all these devices a wire should lose it's insulation, you CAN repair it easily using a piece of "heat shrink" and a hair dryer (and hopefully not creating the problem again on a different circuit). DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HEAT SHRINK A SPLICE.

Tool/Material List:

Tape-Black, White, Red, Blue

Heat Shrink (optional)

Blow dryer (optional)

Voltage/Ohm Meter (continuity tester)

Flashlight

Wirenuts

#12 wire (black and white)

A commercial hair dryer or hi end hair dryer can run as high as 2800w or more, for a draw of 23 amps. Breakers/fuse are ACTUALLY rated at 80% of face value, a 15A breaker/fuse can ONLY hold 12A, and a 20A would hold 16A. Assuming they had an "average" hair dryer of 1500w to 1800w (12.5A and 15A respectivly) add two 60w bulbs (120w or 1A) do the math and you can see the breaker CANNOT hold the load.

I hope this helps and clarifies the situation. --67.82.5.32